A Grand Annual Tasting 2016 full of surprises!

Back from a second year of exploration of the wine planet, suitcases full of bottles –  one more intriguing than the other – we were impatient to share our discoveries with 120 fine wine connoisseurs!

Dégustation WE_1-JB & Ludo
It was a difficult choice for the selection, with a final list of 35 wines from 14 countries (1). True heart strokes for some wines, nice curiosities coming from climates both extreme and diverse, each wine tasted on June 13, deserves special attention for its quality and unique personality.
To follow is the summary of a tasting far away from the beaten tracks, organized on the beautiful terrace of Duclot-La Vinicole.

(Northern) Europe seduces with the freshness of its wines

A Swedish white wine on top of the ranking, followed by a Belgian wine, was the first highlight of the tasting!
Made from interspecific varieties (cf. PIWI) – 100% Solaris for Hällåkra Vingard in Sweden and 100% Mossiat for the Belgium Château de Bioul – these wines have “seduced with their freshness and surprised with their aromatic potential”. And although these new varieties (still unknown to the general public), can sometimes lack complexity, they could – thanks to their high resistance to cold – rapidly become the future solution for “Northern” climates, where harsh winters and a lack of sunshine make the production of Vitis vinifera wines (very) complicated.

Dégustation WE_4
Speaking about red wines, Slovakia and Austria are two European nations to follow closely. The Slovak “Cuvée 2012” from Mrva & Stanko (made of 4 indigenous varietals: Hron/Vah/Rimava/Rudava) & 100% Blaufraenkisch “Alte Reben 2011” from J. Heinrich have been described as “providing immediate pleasure with a lot of finesse and an elegant and complex tannic structure”.

TOP 5 – WHITE WINES
1 – Sweden : “Solaris 2014“, from Hällåkra Vingård
2 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Muskotály Réserve 2003“, from Château Dereszla
3 – Indonesia (Bali) : “Aga White 2016“, from Hatten Wines
4 – Belgium (Côtes de Sambre et Meuse) : “Mossiat 2014“, from Château de Bioul
5 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Tokaj Szamorodni Sec 2007“, from Samuel Tinon

Dégustation_COMPO_Blanc
Exotic destinations in front of the scene

Who would have believed it?… Two Balinese wines on the podium: undoubtedly the biggest surprise of the tasting!
Imagine Bali (the only wine region of Indonesia): a tropical country where one can harvest up to 3 times a year, where the vineyard has no dormancy period, where it is never less than 23 ° C in winter and where the vines do not live more than 12 years, because of incessant labor…
Yet the wines “made in Bali” have astonished many guests. Described as “very aromatic, pleasant on the palate and with a certain freshness”, these wines showed that with suitable grape varieties (here Belgia and Muscat St Vallier), advanced technology and specific expertise, it is technically possible to make good wines here.

The top 50 studios pics of the tasting !

The top 50 studios pics of the tasting !


As for Brazil, an increasingly recognized destination, with varied climates (equatorial in the north, continental-temperate in the south), it is a country where great “terroirs“ are emerging. As in the Valle dos Vinhedos in the south, where the “Quorum 2006” from Lidio Carraro (40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Franc) was unanimously recognized as incredibely elegante.

The production of sparkling wines of high quality is booming worldwide

Germany, England, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Hungary… all these countries have something in common: they play in the big leagues in terms of production of sparkling wines.
Blind tasted around a game that consisted of finding the country of origin (not that easy…), seven sparkling wines, all from different countries, have literally amazed our guests!

JBA with John Leroy, winemaker @ Ruffus Estate (Belgium)

JBA with John Leroy, winemaker @ Ruffus Estate (Belgium)


In fact, more and more wineries, located in regions of the world with suitable terroirs – predominantly calcareous/chalky soils and cool/temperate climates – prove that with suitable varieties, grapes harvested with good maturity, using the traditional method (2) and with long and rigorous ageing, it is possible to produce fantastic bubbles around the world – able to compete with the French production, for example.
Even Bali moved up on the podium with it’s Moscato d’Bali from Sababay, an aromatic and slightly sweet sparkling wine.

TOP 3 – SPARKLING WINES
1-Belgium (Wallonie) : “Cuvée Franco Dragone 2011“, from Ruffus
2 – Brazil (Serra Gaucha) : “Terroir Nature – SAFRA 2009“, from Cave Geisse
3 – Indonesia (Bali) : “Moscato d’Bali 2015“, from Sababay
Special mention : England (Kent) : “Blanc de Blancs 2010“, from Gusbourne

Dégustation_COMPO_Bubulle_DEF
[NB : congratulations to Paul Dunleavy, from Te Motu (NZ), the only guest at the blind tasting who identified the origins of the 7 sparkling wines!]

Hungary honored and present in all categories

Hungary was in all conversations on 13 June. First with the famous Tokaj region and its sweet wines : 260g of residual sugar for the delicious “Muskotály Réserve 2003“ from Château Dereszla of which remained not a single drop!
But also with dry white wine, like the amazing “Szamorodni Sec 2007” from Samuel Tinon : a wine made from botrytis grapes, fermented in open tanks without residual sugar (unique in the world)… a wine of meditation.

THE TEAM !!

THE TEAM !!


Lesser known than other Hungarian wine regions, Etyek-Buda (25 minutes west of Budapest), with its mild continental climate, turned towards the production of juicy Pinot Noir wines in recent years. A nice example : the “Pinot Noir 2013“ from Etyeki Kuria – n°1 red wine of the tasting. Again, a nice surprise!

TOP 5 – RED WINES
1 – Hungary (Etyek-Buda) : “Pinot Noir 2013“, from Etyeki Kuria
2 – New Zealand (Waiheke Island) : “Bordeaux Blend 1999“, from Te Motu
3 – Australia (Tasmania) : “Cab. Sauvignon/Merlot 2000“, from Freycinet
4 – Brazil (Serra Gaucha) : “Quorum 2006“, from Lidio Carraro
5 – Austria (Burgenland) : “Alte Reben 2011“, from J. Heinrich
Special mention : 
 “Cuvée 2012“, from Mrva & Stanko – Slovakia

Dégustation_COMPO_rouge
Oceania never ceases to surprise

We all agree, Australia and New Zealand don’t have to gain one’s spurs.
However, two regions particularly intrigued us by their cool climate, particularly suitable for the production of long ageing “Bordeaux style“ wines:
-Tasmania (South of Australia), with the “Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2000“, from Freycinet Winery, a model of elegance and freshness ;
-and Waiheke Island, in New Zealand (near Auckland), where the “Bordeaux Blend 1999” from Te Motu (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc), 2nd on the podium and WINE EXPLORERS’ Heart Stroke, impressed with its vitality and youthfulness.
Finally, our guests said they tasted some of the most finest Syrah from Hawke’s Bay (north of New Zealand), home of real Syrah gems like the great “Jewelstone Syrah 2013” from Mission Estate, as well as from Australia, with  “Syrahmi Dreams… 2012“ from Adam Foster and “Basket Press Shiraz 2011“ from Rockford Wines, without forgetting a legendary Grenache, with “The Tri-Centenary 2008“ from Yalumba.

The wine planet (still) remains to be discovered…

WineExplorers’cheers,
Amandine Fabre & Jean-Baptiste Ancelot

 

Thank you to Jean-Luc Lavatine and the team of Duclot-La Vinicole for having made available this beautiful place for our Annual Tasting.
Thank you to all producers for having participated in this event by offering us the wines. We were also very touched by the presence in Paris, on June 13, of some wineries which came to support the event : Hatten Wines (Bali), Ruffus (Belgium), Sababay (Bali), J. Heinrich (Austria), Te Motu (New Zealand) and the Château de Bioul.
Finally, a huge thank you to everyone who participated in the success of this beautiful evening : Catherine Ancelot-Savignac (who also prepared a wonderful buffet!), Prune Meunier, Ode Coyac, Alexandra Schneider, Clara Laurent, Victory Dauviau ; as well as Amandine Fabre, Ludovic Pollet and Stephane Diné from the WINE Explorers’ team.
 

(1) Complete list of the 35 wines presented on June 13 for the Grand Annual Tasting :
1 – Indonesia (Bali) : “Aga White 2016“, from Hatten Wines – Bali
2 – Belgium (Côtes de Sambre et Meuse) : “Mossiat 2014“, from Château de Bioul
3 – Sweden (Skåne) : “Solaris 2014“, from Hällåkra Vingård
4 – Belgium (Heuvelland) : “Pinot 2015“, from Entre Deux Monts
5 – Switzerland (Mont-sur-Rolle) : “Clos du Couvent 2009“, from Domaine de Maison Blanche
6 – Austria (Wachau) : “Smaragd Singerriedel 2014“, from Domäne Wachau
7 – Czech Republic (Moravia) : “Sonberk Riesling V.O.C. 2013“, from SONBERK
8 – Australia (Eden Valley) : “Heggies Vineyard Riesling 2005“, from Heggies Vineyard (Yalumba)
9 – Germany (Rheingau) : “Riesling Alte Reben QBA trocken 2005“, from SCHLOSS VOLLRADS
10 – Australia (Tasmania) : “Freycinet Riesling 2003“, from Freycinet Vineyard
11 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Furmint Sparkling Wine 2011“, from Gróf Degenfeld
12 – England (Kent) : “Blanc de Blancs 2010“, from Gusbourne
13 – Brazil (Serra Gaucha) : “Terroir Nature – cuvée SAFRA 2009“, from Cave Geisse
14 – Belgium (Wallonie) : “Cuvée Franco Dragone Prestige 2011“, from Ruffus
15 – Germany (Rheingau) : “Riesling Sekt Extra Brut 2003“, from SCHLOSS VOLLRADS
16 – Indonesia (Bali) : “Moscato d’Bali 2015“, from Sababay Winery
17 – Australia (Barossa) : “Sparkling Black Shiraz NV“, from Rockford Wines
18 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Kabar 2013“, from Chateau Dereszla
19 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Tokaj Szamorodni Sec 2007“, from Samuel Tinon
20 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2008“, from Gróf Degenfeld
21 – Hungary (Tokaj) : “Muskotály Réserve 2003“, from Vinotéka Dereszla
22 – Denmark : “Utopia Rondo 2006“, from Kelleris Vin
23 – Austria (Burgenland) : “Alte Reben 2011“, from Weingut Heinrich
24 – Hungary (Sopron) : “Kékfrankos 2013“, from Etyeki Kúria Winery
25 – Austria (Burgenland) : “St. Laurent Schafleiten 2013“, from Judith Beck
26 – Slovakia : “Cuvée 2012 (Hron/Váh/Rimava/Rudava)“, from Víno Mrva & Stanko
27 – Brazil (Serra Gaucha) : “Quorum 2006“, from Lidio Carraro
28 – New Zealand (Waiheke Island) : “Bordeaux Blend 1999“, from Te Motu
29 : Australia (Tasmania) : “Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2000“, from Freycinet Winery
30 – Slovakia : “Pinot Noir 2013“, from Víno Tajna
31 – Hungary (Etyek-Buda) : “Pinot Noir 2013“, from Etyeki Kuria Winery
32 – Australia (Barossa) : “Tricentenary Grenache 2008“, from Yalumba
33 – New Zealand (Hawke’s Bay) : “Jewelstone Syrah 2013“, from Mission Estate Winery
34 – Australia (Heathcote) : “Dreams…2012“, from Syrahmi Estate (Adam Foster)
35 – Australia (Barossa) : “Basket Press Shiraz 2011“, from Rockford Wines 

(2) The so-called classic way (though not the oldest) to produce sparkling wine is popularly known as the Champagne method or méthode classique which is the official EU designation. The wine is fermented once in the barrel and then undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle.

New Zealand, a (green) world apart

Ludo has been talking non-stop about New Zealand for two years… This is his third ‘heart’ homeland where he took some of his most beautiful visual pictures in the past. So I was impatient to go there. Not (only) to be left in peace, be sure.

25_NZ_IMG_1026_EDT
We decided to innovate our method of transport by renting a car with an integrated tent on the roof. The concept seemed both friendly and exciting.  We could sleep wherever we wanted without the limitations inherent to the much bigger campervan. Watch in hand, the tent unfolds and installs in less than a minute. We were well on our way…

Organic and biodynamic cultures on the rise

We started our journey on the South Island, rallying Picton by ferry.

25_NZ_M93A5467_EDT
Upon our arrival, we were struck by the preservation of nature and the will of many estates to cultivate the vineyards biodynamically. 
At Seresin Estate, fully organic and biodynamic certified, we enjoyed a beautiful carriage ride through the vineyards to discover with surprise and wonder chickens, sheep, cows and even a few pigs, lounging at their own pace between rows of vines. They provide the best possible compost to the soil, while cleaning weeds. A true work of craftsmanship, 100% green!

25_NZ_M93A7484_EDT
At Felton Road, further south, biodynamic preparations have names similar to Harry Potter’s potions : “Horn Manure”, “Horn Silica”, or “Preparation 507”. « These are essential elements in soil reinforcement  which are the foundation of biodynamics », said Blair, the oenologist. Even eggshells are kept for the vigor of the vineyard, since they are full of calcium! To our delight, Blair gave us 6 freshly laid eggs. The evening’s omelet looked royal.

Felton Road
As for Waimea, in Richmond, it is the grape skins which are stored for the winter compost.
A green wind breath on New Zealand and we love it. By 2020, the government would even like 20% of wineries to be certified organic (1). To follow closely.

Central Otago, a unique terroir on the 45th parallel

Ludo was right, this country is full of landscapes one more beautiful than the other. Central Otago, the only continental climate of New Zealand (as it is located along the 45th parallel south) (2), remains for me the craziest place we visited in the country.

25_NZ_M93A5513_EDT
Rippon Vineyard is the perfect illustration. Surrounded by the Glendhu Bay mountains and plunging into Lake Wanaka, it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful vineyards we have visited so far. After a meeting at dawn with employees, Nick – the oenologist of the family estate – explained the terroir of the place to us from his Honda motorcycle. « Schist is the base rock of Central Otago, complemented with greywacke and clay, offering very complex soils. And to complete the picture, anabatic winds (3) from the lake bring cool air to the vineyard, making it a more temperate environment». Grape varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Noir seem to give the best results here. Whilst Nick spent many years studying and working in Burgundy, including a stint at DRC (4), he says, « The work we do at Rippon is based on what we learn from the land itself ».

25_NZ_M93A5575_EDT
We must however be careful and learn how to listen to the weather in Central Otago. Because in this region, « the climate can be extreme, with temperatures easily reaching 38 to 40 ° C in summer, contrasted by strong frost and snow in winter », we were told at Peregrine Estate, a nearby and very talented winery.

Some coups de cœur for this first part of the trip :
MARAMA 2012, from Seresin Estate (100% Sauvignon Blanc)
« Block 3 » 2013, from Felton Road (100% Pinot Noir)
Emma’s Block 2012, from Rippon Vineyard (100% Pinot Noir)
Pinnacle 2012, from Peregrine Estate (100% Pinot Noir)
Trev’s Red 2013, from Waimea (71% Cabernet Franc, 27% Syrah, 2% Viognier)

26_NZ_Bouteille_PARTIE_1
Sauvignon Blanc, fish and the ocean

Our tour on the South Island ended in the East. We drove along the Pacific Ocean from Pegasus Bay. During  a break in Kaikoura, we met a few sea lions basking from the sun on the rocks. The current passed well and we sympathized immediately.

25_NZ_M93A7273_EDT
Reluctantly leaving our charming companions, we headed to Cloudy Bay – in the Marlborough region – where a great wine tasting accompanied by Bay oysters was waiting us. Small, fleshy and gently iodine, these oysters with nutty flavors went great with the citrus notes of the Sauvignon Blanc from the estate.
The diversity of crustaceans and fish from the bay leaves one dreaming. Stop for example at Rock Ferry estate, a few streets down and let yourself be seduced by a tarakihi (5) with toasted sesame grains on the skin for lunch. Splendid. 

25_NZ_M93A7538_EDT
Before leaving, we headed to Clos Henri. This young domain was created by the Bourgeois family (Domaine Bourgeois in Sancerre).  We liked the place for the willingness of its owners to find a second terroir of expression for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir that could echo that of Sancerre. Mission accomplished: the wines are pure, racy and of great finesse.

A must detour through the North Island

Less known than other New Zealand wine regions, Wairarapa is full of many small producers who deserve attention. We met David Boyd, the owner of Lynfer Estate. He arrived in New Zealand 26 years ago persuing a military career and nothing predestined him to become a winemaker. That was until he learned that one of his colleagues had bought a domain. “Why not me?”, he said. A dream which came true in 2009.

25_NZ_M93A7733_EDT
Today, the army occupies three days of David’s week. He is a winemaker for the remaining time. ” Within the next 10 years, I will be a full-time winemaker”, he says. His cuvée “Pinot Noir 2013” is already promising.

Going back to Auckland, we stopped at Mission Estate, in Hawke’s Bay. Founded in 1851 by Catholic missionaries, this is one of the oldest wineries of New Zealand. « The region is warmer and more suitable for varieties such as Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon », Steve, the head of viticulture, explained.

25_NZ_M93A7800_EDT
Some coups de cœur for this second part of the trip:
Trig Hill Riesling 2010, from Rock Ferry
Chardonnay 2013, from Cloudy Bay
Home Block Pinot noir 2008, from Margrain Vineyard
Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2013, from Clos Henri
Jewelstone Syrah 2013, from Mission Estate

26_NZ_Bouteille_PARTIE_2
Waiheke Island, a small paradise

The island of Waiheke is only 30 minutes from Auckland by ferry. A small, lost and preserved corner of paradise with its wild beaches and hippie culture. People live here ‘out of time’. On a stretch of only 19,3 km long, the island has no less than 20+ wineries, such as Te Whau, where Tony Forsyth , a former London sociologist, who moved here for a change of lifestyle lives.

25_NZ_M93A7837_EDT
With a 25% slope and necessary handlabour throughout the vineyard, I am not sure that retirement is an easy one… Whatever, Tony is passionate. « When you love what you do, nothing else matters », he likes to say. His cuvée “Chardonnay 2014” is remarkable.

We ended our stay in Waiheke in apotheosis with a memorable vertical tasting (6) at Te Motu. The program included no less than nine vintages: 2014, 2013, 2012, 2004, 2005, 2006, 1997, 1999 and 1998. 98 and 99, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, are at their peak and of rare finesse. No doubt, we play here in the first league.

Te Motu
The day before leaving, we were invited by Nicolas Goldschmidt – the director of the OIV MSc – to host a joint conference in Auckland – an opportunity to present the project for promotion to the press. A beautiful New Zealand vs France tasting, lead by Gerard Basset followed. The wine world is beautiful when it is shared in this way.

WineExplorers’cheers,
JBA

Thank you to Waimea, Rippon Vineyard, Felton Road, Peregrine Estate, Pegasus Bay, Rock Ferry, Cloudy Bay, Seresin Estate, Clos Henri, Margrain Vineyard, Lynfer Estate, Mission Estate, Te Whau and Te Motu for their warm welcome. Thank you to Nicolas Goldschmidt, director of the OIV MSc, to Gérard Basset and the Glengarry team for this beautiful conference in Auckland. Finally, thank you to Leafyridge for the memorable tasting of olive oils they organized us during our visit to Lynfer Estate.

(1)  For more information : http://www.ruralnewsgroup.co.nz/wine-grower/wg-opinion/editorial/an-organic-experience
(2) The 45th parallel South crosses only land on a part of New Zealand and Patagonia. The rest of the parallel only see the ocean.
(3) A anabatic wind is an upward wind of an air mass along a geographical terrain due to the heating of it.
(4) DRC : common abbreviation to evoke the famous Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
(5) The tarakihi is a local fish and the third most consumed in New Zealand.
(6) A vertical tasting is a tasting where you put side by side several vintages of the same wine of the same estate.

For more information on New Zealand wines : http://www.nzwine.com